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Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico City

 

St Nazarius's Day, Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico City

140cmx 160cm

 

The story goes that the wandering 14th century Aztec tribe witnessed an eagle standing on a cactus whilst eating a snake. The Aztecs interpreted this as a sign to build their empire Tenochtitlan on the site. This empire lasted until the arrival of the Spanish colonist Cortes and his fateful meeting with Moctezuma, the Aztec God- King, and was renamed and rebuilt by the Spaniards as Mexico in the 16th century.  Paseo de la Reforma, the 'street of the Reforms', is a grand Spanish boulevard commemorating the economic and educational reforms of 19th century Oaxacan politician Benito Juarez. 

 

On St Nazarius's day the persecuted and martyred Saint's devotees proudly carry statues through the streets past the National Lottery building and the seats of power of the Mexican media.

In the background demonstrators walk from the Monumento a la Revolucion carrying a coffin to protest against alleged corruption. The air is heavy with the promise of rain and thick with petrol fumes and the manic whistling of traffic police. A balloon model maker plies his trade alongside a girl selling papaya. An old woman rests on a bench and a businessman enjoys a snack. Mexico City is as vast and powerful as I remember it being seven years earlier. I open my sketchbook and start drawing.

 

Ed Gray, Oaxaca, Mexico

September 2008